Cadaques is a small Catalan port that preserves traces of a bustling era in which architects, attracted by Salvador Dali's "transcendental" aura and the great artists who surrounded him, led hedonistic yet impoverished lives. A little way away stands the Casa del Capitan. Discreetly mirroring the outlines of its promontory, it is a masterful work of art. Half a century later, everything is still intact: the tricks of the light and shadows, the fluidity of space, the extreme simplicity of forms and materials, and the immensity of the blue. There is so much beauty to contemplate here that it could take up your entire day.